UP RIVER CAFE,

Co-owners Daniel and Jennifer King, who learned the restaurant-business in San Francisco, are eager to make their mark in Rhode Island. To that end, they hired back Bryan Waugh, who left Three Fish's kitchen two years ago for the Clarke Cooke House in Newport. Waugh is glad to be back in South County, re-imagining some of his favorite seafood dishes. Main dishes include herb-crusted salmon ($18), risotto with wild mushrooms and asparagus ($15), and two specials: lamb chops ($22) and red-snapper ($19). The regular menu also includes Stonington scallops, roast chicken, pork chops, a New York strip steak, and two variations of burgers ($7.50 and $9). The latter are served with French fries and can be ordered with eight add-ons. The Kings's spirit of fun in putting burgers on their bistro menu reappears in the dessert listings, with Chickie's root beer float and old-fashioned ice cream sundaes.

Full review.